Media Centre for Patagonia Exploration and Wildlife Research Expedition

Ade Ryder

Looking at my watch I realise it’s 8am, time to get up. The three of us rousing ourselves out of sleep, we open the tent door to find snow on the ground and on of the team cooking up the daily dose of porridge.

Our current task is to search for Huemul, an indigenous deer species of the Patagonian region. Huemul haven’t been seen in this part of Lanin National park for 80 years but yesterday we had some success, possible tracks were spotted on a plateau nearby.

We kit up for the hike and head off with the park wardens. It’s hard to believe the wardens when they tell us that only two people have been to this area in the last year, it seems almost criminal that somewhere so beautiful is not being appreciated but it also makes us feel privileged to be here all the more.

Crossing through marshland and forest the chief scientist spots antler marks on a tree, he’s extremely excited and 100% confident that we have evidence of Huemul. Having marked the spot we begin our ascent to the plateau, bush crashing our way up the hill, something we have gotten used to in our previous studies in the park, hill-hikes, river crossings and thorn-bushes no longer posing as obstacles.

Arriving at the site we are given a breath-taking panorama of the surrounding snow-capped hillsides, to the South we see Volcan Lanin, bringing back memories of our summit attempt during training.

The suspected Huemul tracks turn out to be a red-herring but having sighted the markings earlier in the day we are not disappointed. We sit to admire the view while we tuck into our lunches, salami, cheese and the essential GVI crackers. Soon after lunch a snow storm sweeps in catching frost in the beards of some of the lads, and starting a brief snowball fight before we realise we should head back.

Walking back to our campsite we skirt the edge of the Chilean border we see an open air church with a beautiful wooden carving under a makeshift awning, exposed to the elements, amongst this eerie forest it seems surreal and yet perfectly fitting.

On returning to camp we pack up and begin our 12km walk back to the vehicles. One of the wardens tells us that the trail we are following is the same that a Chilean poet, Pablo Neruda used to escape from Chile and subsequently described in his Nobel prize speech.

The scenery is mystical, waterfalls, lichen covered trees and native American spiritual sites.

We march through cane and over rivers, laughing and singing (out of tune) as we go, finally arriving back where we began at the enchanting Lago Queñi, autumnal colours blending with the lake’s deep blue, framed with the mountains in the distance.

Tomorrow is a rest day but our next rotation is with the condors, every day brings new sights and experiences, what will be next?

Ade Ryder